Commercial access control door service by locksmith in Mesa Arizona
/ By Raul Geo / Automotive Locksmith • Commercial Locksmith • Residential Locksmith • Tip & Tricks/ • • • • • / 0 Comments

Locksmith Mesa AZ: Why Locks Fail in Heat (and What We Check)

Most “sudden” lock failures in Mesa are alignment and tolerance problems—heat expands doors and frames, dust dries lubrication, and worn keys change cylinder timing. A locksmith isolates whether the issue is the key, cylinder, latch, strike plate, or door geometry, then corrects the friction/fit problem instead of forcing the hardware and causing damage.

In Mesa and the Phoenix Metro, you’ll see a pattern: the door locks fine early morning, then “acts up” mid-day, then behaves again at night. That swing isn’t random—it’s the lock system reacting to heat expansion, airborne dust, and daily wear.

If you’re trying to decide whether you need a rekey, a lock change, a realignment, or a deeper repair, start with the same logic we use in the field: isolate the moving parts and measure where friction is building. This guide reflects how our team approaches everyday calls across residential locksmith services in Mesa and nearby cities.

When the symptoms feel urgent, it’s tempting to force the key or slam the door. That usually turns a minor tolerance issue into a bent latch, cracked strike plate, or damaged cylinder. The better route is diagnosis first, then the correct repair path—especially if you’re dealing with a modern deadbolt, a worn keyway, or a smart lock that’s sensitive to alignment.

You can learn more about who we are on our About Us page, or reach out directly through our Contact page. Directions and reviews: Google Maps.

Why Mesa Heat and Dust Make Lock Problems Show Up “All at Once”

Heat changes dimensions. Not by inches—by fractions of a millimeter. But locks are tolerance devices. A deadbolt, latch, and strike plate can be perfectly happy until the door expands or the frame shifts just enough to create drag.

Dust changes friction. It mixes with old lubricant and becomes abrasive. In a keyway, that abrasive paste accelerates wear on both the key blade and the cylinder’s internal surfaces.

Wear changes timing. A key that’s rounded at the tip, worn along the bitting, or slightly twisted can still “kind of” work—until expansion and friction push the cylinder past its comfort zone.

Key takeaway: If a lock works in the morning and fights you mid-day, suspect alignment and friction—not “bad luck.”

What’s Actually Failing: Key, Cylinder, Latch, or Door Alignment?

When people say “the lock is broken,” they’re usually describing one of these:

1) The keyway + key blade interface

  • Keyway wear shows up as slop, rough insertion, or inconsistent turning.
  • Key blank wear (especially on copies of copies) changes how the pins/wafer surfaces line up.

Most residential door locks are pin-tumbler. Many automotive components (like some ignitions) use wafer behavior that reacts differently to worn keys. Either way, the principle is the same: worn metal + heat expansion = unreliable alignment.

2) The cylinder tolerances

Inside the cylinder, pins (or wafers) have to hit a precise shear line. Dirt, dry lubricant, and slight wear can push that tolerance over the edge. Sometimes the correct solution is to rekey the existing hardware; sometimes it’s smarter to replace the cylinder entirely depending on condition and security goals.

If you’re leaning toward rekeying, start here: rekey door locks.

3) Latch timing + strike plate alignment

If the latch/bolt doesn’t land cleanly in the strike opening, people force the door. That creates a cycle:

  • minor misalignment → forcing → more misalignment → early failure

Door sag, hinge wear, and frame movement all show up as latch timing problems. When this is the root cause, changing the lock without correcting alignment can repeat the problem.

For a full hardware refresh (especially after a move-in or tenant change), see: change locks.

4) Hardware type matters (handleset, deadbolt, mortise)

A handleset deadbolt installation has different alignment sensitivities than a basic knob-and-deadbolt setup. And mortise locks in commercial doors behave differently than cylindrical locks, especially when doors see heavy daily use.

If your storefront door uses mortise hardware, this is the right category to start: mortise lock repair.

Quick Diagnosis: Symptom → Likely Cause → What a Pro Checks

Symptom Likely cause What a pro checks
Key inserts rough keyway wear / debris keyway condition, debris load
Key turns hard mid-day expansion + drag door fit, latch path
Deadbolt won’t extend strike misalignment strike plate, bolt centerline
Door “needs a pull” to lock door sag hinge play, frame shift
Smart lock errors / jams misalignment bolt travel, door gap
Key works, then doesn’t worn key blank key wear, cylinder timing
Business door won’t latch closer/door geometry latch timing, strike opening
Car key turns rough ignition wear key wear, ignition feel (no bypass)

Key takeaway: We don’t start by guessing “replace the lock.” We start by proving what’s binding and why.

The Most Common Fix Paths for Mesa Homes

Rekey when the hardware is solid, but the key control is not

Rekeying makes sense when:

  • the lock body is in good shape
  • you want to control who has working keys
  • you’re dealing with inconsistent copies

Explore: rekey door locks.

Change the lock when the cylinder or body is worn, damaged, or outdated

Lock changes are the better move when:

  • the cylinder has excessive play
  • the keyway is severely worn
  • the lock has physical damage or corrosion

Start here: change locks.

Upgrade alignment-sensitive entry points with the right modern hardware

Smart locks add convenience, but they punish misalignment. If the bolt drags even slightly, the motor strains and reliability drops.

For modern installs and alignment checks, see: install smart lock and smart keyless deadbolt installation.

Don’t ignore secondary locks (mailboxes, side gates, interior doors)

Mailbox locks fail from dust + tiny components + constant key wear. If you’re fighting a sticky mailbox cam lock, this service page matches the issue: mailbox lock repair.

Commercial Doors in Mesa: Push Bars, Mortise Locks, and Access Control

Commercial doors take a different kind of abuse: higher cycles, tighter compliance requirements, and hardware stacks that must work together.

If your exit door uses panic hardware, reliability is about latch timing and door geometry as much as the bar itself. Start with these service pages:

For business security upgrades, two common paths are:

And when the hardware itself is worn from constant traffic, a refresh can be the cleanest fix: commercial lock change.

Key takeaway: On storefront doors, “it sticks” is often a door-and-frame problem before it’s a lock problem.

Vehicles: When a “Lock Issue” Is Really a Key + Authorization Issue

Automotive calls feel similar—key won’t turn, fob won’t work, the car won’t start—but modern vehicles add an authorization layer.

Here’s the safe, high-level way to think about it:

  • The mechanical side is the key blade interacting with an ignition/door cylinder (often with wafer-style behavior). Worn key edges can cause rough turning.
  • The electronic side is the transponder/immobilizer authorization concept: the vehicle expects a recognized credential before it allows operation (no bypasses, no shortcuts).

If your key is turning rough or intermittently, start here: auto ignition repair.

If the issue is the credential itself (lost/damaged keys or fobs), these pages match the intent:

For the full category scope, see: automotive locksmith services.

How to Choose a Legit Locksmith in Mesa Without Risking Your Property

A good locksmith call should feel structured and verifiable. Here’s what we recommend as a baseline (and how we operate):

  • Verify ownership/authorization before work begins (protects you and your property).
  • Get a written quote so pricing is clear before any changes happen.
  • Ask what they plan to check first (alignment, cylinder condition, key condition) before they suggest replacements.
  • Avoid anyone pushing destructive entry when a non-destructive diagnostic path exists.

If you need an outside checklist to compare providers, add your preferred references here:

When you’re ready to schedule or ask a question, use our contact page or start from the homepage.

Where This Applies Around Mesa and the Phoenix Metro

These heat-and-dust patterns show up across the Valley: Mesa, Phoenix, Tempe, Chandler, Gilbert, Scottsdale, and nearby areas where doors and frames see constant temperature swings and daily use.

If your issue overlaps home, business, and vehicle concerns, it’s normal to need more than one category:

FAQs

Why does my lock work at night but not during the day?

Heat expansion changes door and frame geometry, which can shift bolt alignment and increase friction. A locksmith checks strike alignment, door sag, and cylinder feel to confirm whether it’s alignment or internal wear.

Is it better to rekey or change the lock?

Rekeying is ideal when the lock hardware is still solid and you mainly need new key control. A lock change is smarter when the cylinder or body is worn, damaged, or outdated for your security needs.

Why does my key feel rough going into the lock?

Dust and dried lubricant can load the keyway, and worn key edges can scrape more than they should. A pro inspects the keyway condition and the key’s wear pattern to determine whether cleaning, rekeying, or replacement is appropriate.

Are smart locks more sensitive in Arizona heat?

Yes—smart lock motors are sensitive to drag. If alignment is off, the bolt travel strains, and reliability drops. The right fix usually involves alignment verification plus correct installation, not forcing the bolt.

My business door won’t latch unless I push hard—what’s happening?

That usually points to door geometry and latch timing, not just the lock. A locksmith checks strike placement, door closer behavior, and hardware wear to restore consistent latching.

Can a worn car key cause ignition problems?

Yes. Worn key edges can change how the ignition components align, which can create rough turning or intermittent behavior. A pro evaluates key wear and ignition feel and recommends the least invasive repair path.

Do you need to see ID before helping with a lock problem?

In legitimate service, authorization checks are normal—especially for vehicles, businesses, and restricted-access doors. It protects the customer, the property, and the technician, and it reduces liability and damage risk.

Closing Thoughts

If your lock is failing “out of nowhere” in Mesa, the odds are high it’s a tolerance and alignment issue made worse by heat, dust, and normal wear. The symptoms look dramatic, but the root cause is usually measurable.

The correct path forward is diagnosis first: confirm whether the friction is in the door geometry, the latch/strike relationship, the cylinder tolerances, or the key itself—then choose the right repair, rekey, or replacement strategy.

We’re a local Mesa team with an established office and a technician-led process built around verification, written quotes, and clean workmanship. If you want help identifying the true failure point, we’ll walk you through what we see and why we recommend a specific fix.

Call (480) 418-7560 to schedule service, or contact us through our Contact page. For background on our team and approach, visit About Us. Always avoid risky shortcuts—authorization checks, damage prevention, and high-security handling matter.

Locksmith opening commercial glass door lock in Mesa AZ
/ By Raul Geo / Automotive Locksmith • Commercial Locksmith • Residential Locksmith • Tip & Tricks/ • • • • / 0 Comments

Mesa Locksmith AZ Guide: Rekey vs Lock Change vs Repair (Real-World Use Cases)

Most “lock problems” in Mesa aren’t random failures—they’re friction, alignment, or key-control issues that show up when heat expansion and dust push worn hardware past its tolerances. The right fix depends on what’s actually failing: the keyway/cylinder, the latch/strike alignment, or the door’s geometry—not just the lock brand.

If you’re in Mesa and the lock suddenly feels stiff, the key turns rough, or the deadbolt “almost” throws, you’re seeing a predictable pattern in the Phoenix Metro: doors and frames move with temperature, dust dries out lubrication, and everyday wear changes how tightly parts fit.

This is exactly the kind of call our team handles through our residential locksmith services—and the best outcomes happen when you choose the fix that matches the failure mode, not the most expensive option.

If you want to confirm what you’re dealing with before you spend money, this guide breaks down when to rekey, when to change locks, and when the real fix is repair/alignment work. Directions and reviews: Google Maps.

Rekey vs Lock Change vs Repair: What Each Really Means

Rekey (key control + cylinder reset, same lock hardware)

Rekeying changes the “key authorization” for a lock without replacing the entire lockset. In practical terms, you keep the same hardware on the door, but you stop old keys from working and issue a new key set.

What rekeying is best at:

  • Resetting access after a move, tenant turnover, employee separation, or lost keys
  • Fixing “too many copies” problems caused by worn key blanks and inconsistent duplicates
  • Standardizing keys across multiple doors when the lock hardware is still in good shape

Related services:

Key takeaway: Rekeying is a security + control decision as much as a mechanical decision.

Lock Change (new hardware or new lockset)

A lock change replaces the lock hardware because the existing components are worn, damaged, outdated, or you want a different level of security and convenience.

Common “change” triggers:

  • Excessive keyway wear or cylinder slop
  • A lock that binds even after alignment is corrected
  • You want a new format (handleset, upgraded deadbolt, smart lock)

Related service:

Key takeaway: Changing the lock makes sense when the hardware is the problem—or when your security goals changed.

Repair (restore function without changing the key system)

Repair means the lock system can be made reliable again by correcting the real cause: latch timing, door sag, strike plate alignment, worn internal parts, or commercial door hardware issues.

Repair is often the best call when:

  • The door must be pulled/pushed to lock
  • The deadbolt hits the strike plate or drags mid-day
  • A commercial door has cycle-related wear (high-traffic doors)

Related services:

Key takeaway: If the door alignment is off, replacing the lock can repeat the same failure.

Decision Matrix: Choose the Fix That Matches the Risk

Option Best when Addresses Does it change keys? Typical Mesa triggers
Rekey Hardware is solid Key control + cylinder setup Yes New home, tenant turnover, lost key
Lock change Hardware is worn/outdated Full hardware condition Yes Rough keyway, damaged lock, upgrade
Repair Door/hardware is misaligned Fit + timing + function No Heat binding, door sag, strike drag

Quick rule: If your goal is “who has access,” start with rekeying. If your goal is “this hardware is failing,” consider repair or a lock change depending on wear.

Why Mesa Heat Turns “Minor” Issues into Big Problems

Mesa and the Phoenix Metro have two forces that make borderline locks fail:

  • Heat expansion: Wood, metal, and composite doors shift by tiny amounts, but locks are tolerance devices. A small shift changes how smoothly a deadbolt travels into the strike pocket.
  • Dust + dry air: Dust loads the keyway and mixes with old lubricant. That increases abrasion inside the cylinder and accelerates key blank wear.

This creates the classic pattern: the lock “works fine” in the morning, then fights you in mid-day heat, then feels better at night. That swing points to alignment + friction, not random failure.

Quick Diagnosis: Symptom → Likely Cause → What a Pro Checks

Symptom you feel Likely cause What a pro checks (no risky shortcuts)
Key inserts rough debris + keyway wear keyway condition, wear patterns
Key turns hard only mid-day expansion + alignment drag strike alignment, bolt path
Deadbolt won’t fully throw strike pocket interference bolt centerline, travel resistance
Door must be “pulled” to lock door sag / latch timing hinge play, latch-to-strike timing
Smart lock grinds or errors misalignment under load bolt drag closed vs open
Lock feels loose/wobbly worn cylinder/lock body cylinder tolerances, mounting integrity
Storefront door won’t latch high-cycle wear mortise components, closer interaction

Bottom line: We isolate whether the problem is the key/cylinder, the latch/strike, or the door geometry—then recommend the least disruptive fix that restores reliability.

When Rekeying Is the Right Call in Mesa

Rekeying tends to be the best value when your hardware still has good “feel” and consistency, but you don’t trust the key history.

Choose rekeying when:

  • You just moved in and don’t know who has copies
  • A property changed hands (tenant, roommate, employee keys)
  • Keys feel inconsistent because there are too many duplicates in circulation
  • You want the convenience of fewer keys across multiple doors

Relevant services:

What rekeying won’t fix: a lock that’s binding due to door sag, a strike plate that’s off-center, or a cylinder that’s already worn beyond tight tolerances.

When a Lock Change Is the Smarter Move

A lock change makes sense when wear is visible in performance, not just in security concerns.

Choose a lock change when:

  • The keyway feels sloppy or unpredictable (classic “worn keyway” behavior)
  • The lock binds even after alignment work
  • The lock body is physically damaged or outdated for your needs
  • You want a functional upgrade (handleset, higher-grade deadbolt, keyless access)

Common upgrade paths on Mesa homes:

Mesa-specific reality: smart locks are less forgiving. If the deadbolt drags even slightly when the door is closed, the motor strains and reliability drops—so alignment testing matters before calling it a “bad lock.”

When Repair Is the Right Fix (Even If You Assume It’s the Lock)

Repair is the correct answer when the lock is a victim of geometry, not the culprit.

Residential repair scenarios

  • Door sag causes the latch/bolt to hit the strike plate edge
  • Heat expansion tightens the bolt path mid-day
  • Strike plate alignment creates drag and intermittent locking

If the issue appears on secondary points like mailboxes, small cylinders can be extra sensitive to dust and key wear:

Commercial repair scenarios

Commercial doors in Mesa see heavier cycles and tighter performance expectations. In many storefront cases, the “repair” involves restoring timing between hardware systems.

Relevant commercial services:

If your business is moving toward controlled entry instead of key sprawl:

If You’re Locked Out: Don’t Turn a Small Problem Into Damage

Lockouts often happen right when the lock is binding from heat or misalignment. Forcing the key, slamming the door, or using improvised methods can damage the cylinder, bend the latch, or crack trim—then your “lockout” becomes a full replacement.

If access is the immediate problem, start with the correct service:

Consumer Checklist: How to Vet a Locksmith Before They Arrive

You asked for real, ready-to-copy external resources with proper anchors. Here are three authoritative references you can keep in your post (and they align with what we recommend: verification, transparency, and avoiding bait pricing):

What to Expect When You Call a Mesa Locksmith (Our Standard Flow)

A professional visit should feel structured:

  1. Authorization check (protects you, your property, and the technician)
  2. Written quote before work so you can approve the scope
  3. Diagnosis: key/cylinder feel, latch timing, strike alignment, door geometry
  4. Options: rekey vs change vs repair, explained in plain terms
  5. Finish + verification: smooth function in real conditions (door open/closed, normal use)

If you want to learn more about our team and approach, start at our homepage or read About Us. If you’re ready to schedule service in Mesa, use our contact page.

FAQs

Should I rekey or change locks when I move into a Mesa home?

If the hardware is in good condition and you mainly need key control, rekeying is usually the cleanest option. If the locks are worn, binding, or outdated, a lock change can be the better long-term move.

What’s the clearest sign I need repair instead of replacement?

If the door only locks when you pull/push it into position, that points to alignment, door sag, or strike timing. A replacement lock won’t fix geometry by itself.

Can heat really make a lock fail in the middle of the day?

Yes. Small shifts in the door/frame change the bolt’s path into the strike pocket. In Mesa, the combination of heat and dust makes friction build faster than many homeowners expect.

If my smart lock works with the door open but struggles closed, what does that mean?

That usually points to resistance under load—misalignment between the deadbolt and strike area. A pro checks the bolt path and door closing behavior before blaming the electronics.

Is rekeying “less secure” than changing the whole lock?

Not automatically. Rekeying can be very secure when the hardware is solid and key control is your main concern. If you want restricted keyways or higher-grade hardware, that’s when an upgrade becomes part of the plan.

I have multiple doors—can you make them work with fewer keys?

Often, yes, when the hardware supports a consistent key plan. A locksmith evaluates the cylinders and recommends the most practical keying approach without sacrificing reliability.

What if this is a business door with heavy traffic?

Commercial doors fail differently because of cycle count and hardware stacks (mortise, closer interaction, panic hardware). The right fix may be repair, a commercial lock change, or moving toward controlled entry depending on the condition.

Do you verify ownership before doing locksmith work?

Yes—verification is a normal part of legitimate service, especially for lockouts, businesses, and vehicles. It reduces risk, prevents damage, and protects everyone involved.

Final Word: Pick the Fix That Matches the Failure

In Mesa, the most expensive option isn’t always the right option. Heat expansion, dust, and daily wear create predictable lock problems—and the correct solution comes from identifying whether the issue is key control, worn hardware, or alignment/timing.

If you want access control (who has working keys), rekeying is often the cleanest path. If the hardware itself is worn or you want an upgrade, a lock change is usually the better investment. If the door is dragging, sagging, or hitting the strike, repair/alignment work is what restores reliability.

Our team operates locally out of Mesa with a clear, technician-led workflow: authorization checks, written quotes before work, and a diagnosis-first approach so you don’t pay for the wrong fix.

Call (480) 418-7560 to discuss your situation and schedule service. If you’re locked out or dealing with a high-security concern, avoid risky shortcuts—verification and damage prevention matter.

how to install a lever handle
/ By Raul Geo / Residential Locksmith • Tip & Tricks/ 0 Comments

How to Install a Lever Handle on a Door

Door Lever Handle Installation

Video transcript:

What we have here is an entry-level set and a deadbolt. We have the lever set with a thumb turn and lock. This will obviously go on the outside, this will go on the inside and locking deadbolt inside and outside. Single-sided so it only takes a key on one side. And we're going to install it in the practice door. This is the latch. In this instance we're going to install this as though it's a right-handed door so the door is going to close that way. So this obviously needs to go in this direction so that the door is prevented from opening by this latch on the flat side. So that will go in first. We fasten the latch into the door using the two screws provided. Now with this half moon shape, in this particular brand, that's going to go inside, this is our lock it lockable side, that's going to go on the outside and this has to match up with the same shape there. And in order to insert that we need to push that slightly inward. Slide it in and then the two fasteners match there. Then we install the lever. And again, that has a matching half moon on this side to match up with this side and then the little white knob in the center is going to be inserted into this tail piece. And as you can see this is designed with a with a space here that covers the screw hole, so rather than fighting this we're just going to take this off with the provided allen wrench. Take this off for now out of our way. We're going to line this up to where this half moon and that button line up with the tail piece and this actuator here. And now we're going to install the lever and tighten it down with the allen wrench.

How to use a Lishi
/ By Raul Geo / Automotive Locksmith • Tip & Tricks/ • • • • • • / 0 Comments

How To Use A Lishi Pick & Decoder

Locked out of your car and lost the keys? In this video we show you how to pick and then decode a Ford door lock.

Video Transcript:

This is a Ford door lock. This is a Ford ignition door and trunk two in one pick and we're going to pick this lock and then decode the cuts in the key that would fit this.

So, we can stick that in there, this is our tensioning tool, we'll lift that up out of the way, then we insert the picks all the way to the back. Then we're going to apply tension and then try and find each of these numbers is the wafer location the vertical lines the horizontal lines are the depths of the cut of the key to align those wafers properly in the cylinder to open the lock.

So, now we just this needle here and this needle here are going to indicate if there's a little bit of springiness then we know that that wafer can be moved if there's no springiness then there's either not a wafer there or it's already been picked.

So, it doesn't look like there's a four there we're not getting any springiness there. I'll go to six and we see a little springiness there so we're going to gently push down we got a click. Five. Four. Three. Two, we've got a false set, go back to six. And then we'll decode it. Six looks like a three cut, five looks like a two, four is a three, three is a two cut, two is a two cut, and there's nothing in one.

There we go there's our code. So now we would cut a key to those corresponding depths and it would unlock the door. An ignition has as many as 10 wafers. So we would use six through two that we decoded and then put that into a software program that is subscriber based and then you'll have as many as four or more options as to what those remaining cuts could be to be able to make these existing cuts and the additional three or four cuts correspond to an ignition key that would also turn the ignition. And then the next step after finding that out, is programming the transponder chip in the ignition key to be able to start the car.

 

how to rekey padlock
/ By Raul Geo / Commercial Locksmith • Residential Locksmith • Tip & Tricks/ 0 Comments

How to Rekey A Padlock

How To Rekey An ABUS Padlock Video Transcript:

So, what we're going to do is rekey an ABUS padlock series 83. Comes in a box like this. This has a couple of features that I'll describe as we go. When you purchase the lock it comes with a one-cut so they're intended to be rekeyed I've already set out the pins that we're going to rekey to this set of precuts.

So, we just simply... first of all open the padlock. This doesn't have the key retaining feature with that cut, so now we're just going to remove the Phillips screw that holds the cylinder core in place with a screwdriver down the shackle hole. That comes out once that's unscrewed the cylinder comes out. Now there's another piece inside and as the screw comes out you'll notice if you can see inside there there's another piece inside that actuator called a Z-bar we're gonna see if we can knock out. Pull it out with tweezers and I'll show you what that looks like. That's this little guy right there and that is the key retaining feature.

If we don't want the key, once we pinned this up with longer pins than the stock cut, this will keep the key in the lock when it's unlocked. So, we'll set that aside right here for now. Now that we have the cylinder out we will use this tool to remove this clip.

I also noticed that this has a detent. What that does is it only enables the cylinder to turn that far. Okay so we need to press that in in order to remove the cylinder. You also saw this come out when I removed that clip, this is the actuator, there's two different lengths on the backside. The shorter side here rides against this detent pin, so when you replace that make sure that this in indented part is on the same side as the detention pin. So, we'll set that aside.

Then we'll put the key in and we'll use the follower and simultaneously we'll press down the detent and remove the core. The detent pin does not come back out it's got a keeper in there. So, these are all of our one cuts from the factory so we're just gonna dump those out and now we'll pin this up for this key and I've already laid the pins out there so we'll drop these in.

Now you can see the cylinder will accommodate six pins, we're only using a five pin key so we won't put anything there, however, after the fact if you want to add a sixth pin this comes with this

kit which adds another top spring, another driver spring, and a plate to cover the top spring so you don't have to remove the whole cylinder if you want to add a sixth pin to key that.

So, now that we've got this pinned up and lined up, well, flush, confirmed all the pins are there we'll put this back in. And again, we have to be mindful that we have a detent there. So, there's probably a better tool than a fingernail but that works. So, now that's in place. Now if we were going to add a sixth pin to this after the fact, this hole right here is where you would put your top, you'd drop your key pin in there then you drive our pin and you can see that's a spool security pin and the spring. And then this little plate slides in right there to keep your spring down so you can add a sixth one without having to remove the cylinder.

Also, by the way, there are spool and serrated driver pins in this lock from the factory so there's already an added layer of security in these against picking. So now that we confirm that this works, our detent is there, our cylinder is not going to come out, we can pull the key out and then we're going to our actuator making sure that the cut out part is on top of the detent. Then we'll add our clip back in. And this little notch here goes into the bottom of the key way and it holds our actuator in place so it has to be centered when you put that back on.

Then here's our Z-bar, now you'll notice on one side it's solid on the other side there's a black dot. When you want the key active the key retaining feature activated this needs to be in place but it also needs to be in place with that black dot showing.

There we go. Now we're gonna put the key in there just in case we have to turn that a bit in order to get it to seat back in there.

Okay hear that click that's all the way seated you can see the cylinder face is flush with the lock body and then we'll drop our screw down in there. And now you can already see the key retaining feature is in place because I cannot turn this back horizontal to where the pins come out of the Bible into the cylinder and be able to remove that key. So that confirms that the key retaining feature is in place. The advantage of this feature is that if someone has a lock that they don't want floating around in the unlocked position or they've got multiple padlocks that are keyed differently they're not fumbling around for the right key when they want to go back and lock it they can't lock this into place unless they have the key with them so the key retaining feature adds another level of valuable features. If you don't want that done so this won't come out unless it's locked that's the key retaining feature. To disable that all we would have had to have done is leave that Z clip off the actuator still opens the lock and then the key is removable.

There you go.